Captain's Log 060426 – The Making of a Modern African Port

After more than thirty years sailing some of the world's most famous waters — from the Mediterranean to the Caribbean, and from the early days crewing off Durban and Cape Town — I've seen many ports and coastal cities. But few have a story as fascinating as Abidjan.

People often ask me how a captain who spent most of his life on the open sea ended up choosing the Ébrié Lagoon. The answer lies in the unique history of this place and its people.

Long before Abidjan became the bustling economic heart of Côte d'Ivoire, the Ébrié Lagoon was home to the Ebrié (also known as Tchaman or Kyama) people. These proud Akan-speaking lagoon dwellers have lived here for centuries. Oral history tells us they migrated in waves from the east (present-day Ghana area) starting in the 17th and 18th centuries, settling along the calm waters of the lagoon. They lived by fishing, farming, and trading — perfectly adapted to this vast, protected inland sea.

For a very long time Abidjan was just a small fishing village on the edge of the lagoon. Everything changed in the 20th century.

The real turning point came with the Vridi Canal — the dredged canal that connects the Ébrié Lagoon to the open Atlantic Ocean. Before 1950 the lagoon was almost completely cut off from the sea by a narrow sand barrier. In 1935 the French colonial authorities began the enormous engineering project to cut a deep canal through the barrier at Vridi. Work was interrupted by the Second World War, but the canal was finally completed in 1950.

That single canal changed everything.

Suddenly Abidjan had direct access to the sea. Deep-water ships could now enter the lagoon safely and dock at a brand-new modern port. In 1951 the Autonomous Port of Abidjan was officially opened. Almost overnight, the city transformed from a quiet lagoon settlement into one of the most important shipping and financial centres in French-speaking West Africa. It became the economic engine of the whole region.

Today Abidjan is a city of contrasts. It is lively, energetic, and full of character. The Ebrié people are still very much part of its soul — their warm hospitality and connection to the lagoon remain strong even as the city has grown into a modern metropolis. You feel that mix everywhere: the traditional respect for the water alongside the buzz of markets, music, nightlife, and street life that makes Abidjan so alive.

For me as a captain, the dredged canal is particularly special. It means the Ébrié Lagoon is not just a beautiful, protected cruising ground — it is also directly linked to the Atlantic. With a short passage through the Vridi Canal you can go from the calm, glassy waters of the mangroves straight out into the open ocean with its long beaches stretching from San Pedro all the way towards Accra.

So when people ask me "Why Abidjan?", I now have a deeper answer.

It's not just about the beauty of the lagoon or the warmth of the people. It's about a place that has grown from a small fishing village into a major African city while still keeping its soul and its connection to the water. The history, the canal that made it possible, and the spirit of the Ebrié people all come together to create something truly unique.

This is why I chose to start the next chapter of my sailing life here.

Captain Murray The Uncharted Waters – Ébrié Lagoon, Abidjan